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Frequently Asked Questions

1. How do I install my drain valve?
2. What is the correct installation manual for my water heater?
3. What does it mean if my water is rusty?
4. What type of element do I require for my water heater
5. What is the difference between electric elements?
6. What are the effects of "scale" or "lime" formation on electric elements?
7. What is element density?
8. How do I install my element?
9. What does it mean if my water is smelly?
10. What is thermal expansion?
11. What are temperature and pressure relief valves?
12. How do I complete a chlorination procedure?
13. What is water hammer?
14. What is the sequence of operation for a dual element electric water heater?
15. How do I complete cathodic protection and inspection for anode rods?
16. What are heat trap fittings?
17. Intermittent or unexpectedly running out of hot water?

1. How do I install my drain valve?

Answer
IMPORTANT: To avoid risk of electric shock, make sure the power is turned "off" and remains off until all repairs have been completed.

WARNING: A water heater is capable of producing hot water at a temperature sufficient enough to cause scalding injury. Take proper precautions when draining a water heater to prevent scalding injury.
Read all instructions carefully before repairing a water heater.

NOTE: The installation of a drain valve generally requires the draining of the tank. Make sure power is turned off in the case of electric heaters, or the gas control is turned to "PILOT" in the case of gas heaters. Electric elements will burn out if they are operated in a "dry" tank, and damage will occur if the gas burner comes on with a gas heater which is not filled with water.

1. Turn "off" water supply and power supply.
2. Drain tank. To speed the flow of water, open a hot water tap to let air into tank.
3. Remove existing valve.
4. Clean the tank threads of any dirt or foreign matter that might affect the proper thread sealing of the new valve.
5. Install new drain valve using a high quality thread sealant (either plumbers tape or approved pipe dope).
6. Fill tank with water and check for leaks. Make sure tank is completely filled with water.
7. Restore power.

All instructions are also located on each package containing your new GSW replacement part.
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2. What is the correct installation manual for my water heater?

Answer
To determine the appropriate installation manual, please refer to your specific water heater by selecting browse products or contact our customer service representatives.
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3. What does it mean if my water is rusty?

Answer
This problem will rarely occur as a result of a water heater or storage tank. Rusty coloured water is caused by the water coming in contact with bare metal. In order for this to happen, a lining failure would have to be so significant that it would allow the water to come in contact with enough bare metal to discolour the contents of even a small tank. Fortunately, with today's high quality glass-lined tanks, this is a very rare occurrence. Instead, the common cause of rusty coloured water is a bacteria (Crenothrix, Leptothfix and Gailionella) that reduces the iron found in water. This bacteria is found in soil, water wells, water treatment plants and water distribution piping systems where soluble iron exceeds 0.2 ppm. The bacteria feeds off this soluble iron and if not treated and allowed to flourish, will result in stained laundry, tablewear and plumbing fixtures. If this bacteria exists in your heater or tank, you may require new anode rod(s), as they will fail prematurely in these conditions.

Solution
Chlorinate your water heater or hot water storage tank. A chlorine feeder may be the only permanent solution to iron or sulfur bacteria infestation.
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4. What type of element do I require for my water heater

Answer
The element in your water heater could be one of four types; strap-on, plug-in, bolt-on (square flange) and screw-in (see next question for details). The water heater element should be visually inspected to ensure you are purchasing the correct element.
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5. What is the difference between electric elements?

Answer
There are four types of heating elements used in water heaters. The types are: strap-on, plug-in, bolt-on (square flange), and screw-in.

The strap-on elements are heating bands that wrap around the water heater. These elements have been replaced by more efficient immersion type elements and have not been used in the manufacturing of residential water heaters since the 1970's and the elements are no longer being produced.

The plug-in elements are immersion type elements and have a round flange that is held in place by a steel plate that bolts on to the water heater. A small rubber gasket (usually orange in color) is used to seal the connection between the element and tank opening. These elements have not been used in manufacturing of water heaters since the mid 1980's; however a limited selection of plug-in elements are available for replacement parts.

The bolt-on (square flange) elements are immersion type elements and have thick steel flange that bolts to the water heater. A thick black rubber gasket and a flat gasket are used to seal the connection between the element and the tank opening. The bolt-on element is still used on some models of water heaters and are widely available.

The screw-in elements are immersion type elements and have a hex head flange (1 1/2"). The element screws into the water heater - plumbers tape or pipe dope should be applied to the element threads - and has a thin gasket that is used to seal the connection between the element and the tank opening.
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6. What are the effects of "scale" or "lime" formation on electric elements?

Answer
All water supplies contain varying quantities of impurities. Calcium and limestone are the most prominent, but as the water tables are lowered the problem is most frequently referred to as "lime scale". When water is heated, these minerals "fall out" of the water and are deposited on the interior surfaces of the tank as "scale". The formation of scale increases with the temperature of the stored water. Scale forms on all surfaces including the element itself. The scale builds up an insulating layer which impedes the efficient transfer of heat which may allow the element to glow red hot in specific localities along its surface.

When this occurs, the scale that has built up on the element surface will flake off and when the water comes back in contact with the hot element surface, the water will flash into steam. This alternate heating and cooling of the element shortens its life span. This process also creates a layer of debris at the bottom of the tank which can build to considerable depths, even to the point where the lower element is covered, effecting the proper operation of the tank. The use of a low density element where a high mineral content in the water supply is present, will slow the build up of minerals in the tank and extend the life of the element.
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7. What is element density?

Answer
Element density is the ratio between the wattage of an element and the surface area of that element. The element density is usually 40D, 80D, 120D or 160D and this number reflects the wattage per square inch. For example: an element that is 3,000 watts and has a density of 80D would have a surface area of 38 square inches (3000W/80D). The lower the density, the larger the element and the lower the operating temperature of the element. The lower the operating temperature of the element (per sq. in.), the longer the life of the element.
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8. How do I install my element?

Answer
IMPORTANT: To avoid risk of electric shock, make sure the power is turned "off" and remains off until all repairs have been completed.

WARNING: A water heater is capable of producing hot water at a temperature sufficient enough to cause scalding injury. Take proper precautions when draining a water heater to prevent scalding injury.

Read all instructions carefully before repairing a water heater.

1. Turn "OFF" water supply and power supply.
2. Drain tank to a level below the element opening.
3. Remove outer casing service door and fold back insulation.
4. Disconnect wires from element and remove element bolts.
   
5. Remove element and old gasket from the tank.
6. Clean tank flange surfaces of any dirt or debris.
   
7. Insert new gasket, element and thermostat bracket.
8. Tighten element bolts diagonally a little at a time. Do not over tighten or damage will occur.
   
9. Insert thermostat behind the element bracket. Make sure thermostat is tight against tank. If necessary, bend the clips to provide more tension.
   
10. Fill tank with water. Make sure tank is completely filled with water. Open a hot water faucet to let the accumulated air escape.
11. Reconnect the wires to the element terminals. Consult the wiring diagram for proper connections.
    
12. Check for leaks. Repair if necessary.
13. Replace insulation over thermostat and element. Replace service door.
14. Turn on power supply.

All instructions are also located on each package containing your new GSW replacement part.
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9. What does it mean if my water is smelly?

Answer
The most common cause of smelly water is a bacteria that is already present in water, but grows rapidly when kept in a warm water environment such as water heaters or hot water storage tanks. This bacteria (called Divibrio Sulfuricans) reduces sulfates that are also contained in the water to a point where they are converted into sulfides. Sulfides, when mixed with hydrogen produce an unpleasant rotten egg odor called HYDROGEN SULFIDE GAS.

Contributing factors to this odour are high concentrations of sulfates (these feed the bacteria), active hydrogen and water with little or no oxygen. Hydrogen although is sometimes already present in the water, is increased by the anode rod(s) found in your water heater. Permanently removing the anode rod(s) is not a suggested remedy as this will void your tank warranty. Examples of when you you might find water low on oxygen would be water heating systems served by well water such as vacation or weekend cottages, or any water heater with long standby periods as well as municipal water systems with large reserves and low flow conditions.

Solution
Chlorinate your water heater or hot water storage tank. A chlorine feeder may be the only permanent solution to iron or sulfur bacteria infestation. Change anode rod from magnesium to aluminum.
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10. What is thermal expansion?

Answer
When water is heated it expands. For example, the volume of water in a 50 US gallon hot water heater will increase by almost one gallon when heated from 40ºF (4.4°C) to 140ºF (60°C). Heating water results in a decrease in density and thereby an increase in volume (see below). Since water is not compressible, the extra volume produced by expansion must go somewhere.

Residential plumbing systems with pressure reducing valves, backflow preventers or other one-way valves create closed systems that do not allow the water to flow back into the municipal water supply. Therefore, system pressure increases.

Thermal expansion of water, combined with the incoming water pressure, in a closed plumbing system may cause unusually high pressure and pressure surges in the system. Excessively high water pressure can result in the chronic or continuous dripping of a temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve, dripping faucets and leaking toilet tank ball cock fill valves.

Excess water pressure can also cause damage to the inner tank of the water heater such as distortion of the flue and water connections. A collapsed flue can lead to the products of combustion spilling into living spaces creating an extremely dangerous situation. Damaged water connections may leak and a distorted inner tank may rupture and cause flooding (see below).

Thermal expansion can be managed by installing either a thermal expansion tank or a water relief valve with a setting that is lower than the water heater Temperature & Pressure (T&P) relief valve* setting. An expansion tank allows the increase in water volume to enter the tank until the system is opened or the water cools down whereas a relief valve allows the water to exit the system in to a suitable drain or discharge location.

Note: *A temperature and pressure relief valve is not considered a thermal expansion device. It is not designed to remediate thermal expansion. (See the answer to question 11 - Temperature & Pressure Relief Valves below).
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11. What are temperature and pressure relief valves?

Answer
All storage type water heaters must be equipped with a properly functioning Temperature and Pressure (T&P) relief valve. These valves must be certified as meeting the requirements of the Standard for Relief Valves for Hot Water Supply Systems, ANSI Z21.22/CSA 4.4.

The T&P relief valve is a safety device that serves two functions. It is designed to open and relieve water should the pressure in the water heater exceed the rated working pressure of the unit, 150 psi (1034 kPa). It will also open in the event that the temperature in the tank exceeds 210°F (99°C). If the T&P valve opens due to excess pressure, there will be either dripping or a small continuous flow of water that relieves the pressure. If, on the other hand, it opens due to a high temperature condition, the valve will open completely and allow the whole tank to empty until cool water resets the thermal probe on the T&P. Both excessive pressure and high temperatures in water heaters are extremely hazardous.

Under normal water heater operating conditions, the T&P valve should not open. T&P valve discharge indicates an abnormal condition in the system; the valve is performing its designated function. The cause of the abnormal condition must be investigated and remedied.

Elevated water pressure can be caused by thermal expansion* and/or high incoming water pressure. These conditions can be managed by installing a thermal expansion tank and/or a pressure reducing valve in the system.

High water temperature can be remedied by replacing the thermostat, aquastat or combination gascontrol-aquastat dependent on the model.

In addition, the T&P valve may discharge because calcium (lime) or sediment has accumulated in the valve preventing it from seating properly. In this case, the T&P valve must be replaced.

The T&P valve pressure setting and C.S.A. rating (see figure below) must not be greater than the working pressure of the water heater and must be higher than input of the water heater respectively.

Manually operate the Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve at least once a year to make sure it is working properly. To prevent water damage, the valve must be properly connected to a discharge line that terminates at an adequate drain. While standing clear of the outlet (discharged water may be hot), slowly lift and release the test lever handle (see figure below) on the T&P valve to allow the valve to operate freely and return to its closed position. If the valve fails to completely reset and continues to release water, immediately turn the fuel and the cold water supply off. Call a qualified service technician.

Note: A temperature and pressure relief valve is not considered a thermal expansion device. It is not designed to remediate thermal expansion.
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12. How do I complete a chlorination procedure?

Answer

1. Turn off the electrical switch or shut off main gas supply.
2. Close the cold water inlet valve to the heater.
3. Open a hot water faucet within the system to relieve tank pressure.
4. Drain 2-5 gallons of water to allow the addition of bleach to the tank. Use a hose connected to the drain valve if an open drain is not adjacent to the heater. CAUTION: Water may be HOT.
5. Remove anode rod or disconnect the hot water outlet pipe from the heater.
6. Using a funnel in the anode rod or hot water opening, add one gallon of household chlorine bleach (e.g. Clorox, Javex ) for every 25 gallons of tank capacity. Re-pipe the heater.
7. Reinstall anode rod(s) after inspecting and replacing as needed
8. Open the cold water inlet valve at the heater and fill the tank with water. Then draw the water to every hot water fixture, until the smell of chlorine is detected. Operate dish and clothes washers until a noticeable amount of the chlorine is detected as well. All hot water lines must receive treatment.
9. Close inlet valve.
10. Leave the bleach mixture in the system for two hours.
11. After two hours, drain the bleach mixture from the tank through the heater drain valve.
12. Close the heater drain valve. Open cold water inlet valve and completely fill the tank with fresh water. To ensure that the water heater is full of water and that all the air has been purged from the system, run all the hot water faucets in the house continuously for three (3) minutes. If you can still smell chlorine at the faucets run them until there is no longer any odour.
    Do not supply power to this water heater until you have verified that the unit is completely filled with water.
13. Check for water leaks at all fittings used; repair as necessary.
14. Turn on the manual electrical switch or gas valve from step 1 above.
    Ensure tank is full of water to prevent dry-firing.
15. Check for normal water heater operation.
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13. What is water hammer?

Answer
In some installations turning the water off at a faucet causes a banging or clanging noise. This is called water hammer. Water hammer is a plumbing phenomenon, unrelated to water heaters.

Water hammer generally occurs in installations where the water pressure is excessively high. Turning off water flow abruptly creates a shock wave that causes banging, clanging in the pipes.

Three quarter inch piping throughout the house may attenuate water hammer as the larger pipe size reduces the speed of the water.

Alternatively, installing a water hammer arrestor may also alleviate the problem. The arrestor absorbs the force of the moving water.

Check all applicable plumbing and building codes before making any changes to the plumbing to ensure compliance.
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14. What is the sequence of operation for a dual element electric water heater?

Answer
The basic operation of a two thermostat system (upper and lower) on an electric water heater of 240 volt supply is as follows:

Only one element will come on at any one time. This is known as a flip/flop system. On a 240 volt water heater, there will always be 120 volts to both elements. The thermostat will direct the second leg of the 120-volts to the element to complete the 240 volts required to energize the element.

Initial start up:
When the tank is full of cold water, the upper thermostat will take priority and heat up the top portion of the water to the setting of the thermostat. Once that temperature has been reached, the thermostat will then flip power down to the lower thermostat. The lower thermostat switch will close and heat up the bottom portion of the tank until the water is heated to the setting of that thermostat. At this point the tank will be full of hot water.

Normal Operation:
When hot water is being used, cold water enters the bottom of the heater (either through the bottom inlet nipple or the dip tube), the bottom thermostat closes and the element will begin to heat the cold water.

When a significant amount of hot water has been used, the upper thermostat will take priority and heat up the top portion of the heater. Once heated, it will flip/switch power down to the lower thermostat and heat the lower portion.

High Limit Control:
All electric water heaters are supplied with a high limit control switch. This switch is a safety device designed to shut the unit off if it over heats and the water reaches an unsafe temperature. Power to the thermostats and elements is completely cut off when it trips. The high limit control can be reset by firmly pushing on the red button above the upper thermostat. An audible click can be heard when it resets. If the high limit control trips frequently it is an indication of additional problems. Contact a qualified technician for service.
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15. How do I complete cathodic protection and inspection for anode rods?

Answer
Glass lined water heaters are supplied with sacrificial magnesium anode rods that protect the interior of the tank through cathodic action. As the rod works, it slowly dissolves over time and must be replaced when it is totally consumed. The nature of the water being heated effects the length of time an anode rod will last. Water conditioning, such as over softening, can accelerate the rate at which the anode rod is consumed. To prolong the life of a water heater, it is recommended that the anode rod be inspected every year and replaced when depleted. When new, the anode rod is approximately 3/4" in diameter. It should be replaced once it is 3/8" or when any of the mild steel inner core is exposed.

ANODE ROD INSPECTION INSTRUCTIONS:
Locate the anode rod on top of the water heater. It is accessible through the hole closest to the center of the tank. There will be insulation covering it and there may be a plastic cap over the access hole. The anode rod has a 1 1/16th inch hex head.

1. Turn off the power if electric. If gas, turn valve from “on” to “pilot” on the water heater.
2. Turn off the cold / inlet water supply to the heater.
3. Drain off approximately 5 gallons of water from the unit.
4. Using a 1 1/16th socket wrench, remove the anode rod. (It could be well tightened from the factory.)
5. Inspect anode rod for consistent pitting. If pitting is consistent and thicker than 3/8” in diameter, reinstall rod. If rod is less than 3/8” in diameter, or bare inner core is exposed, other than at each end, replace anode rod. Anode rods are available at most hardware/plumbing stores. They can be cut to size with a hack saw. GSW uses ¾ inch NPT threads.
6. Wrap threads of the anode with plumber’s tape or use pipe dope approved for use with potable water, and install the (new) anode into tank and tighten.
7. IMPORTANT: Turn water supply back on and ensure the tank is completely filled-up with water by opening all the hot water faucets in the house to release the air in plumbing system. Allow the water to run for three minutes before closing the faucets.
8. Turn the power back on, or turn the dial on the gas valve from “pilot” back to “on” depending upon your unit.

If you do not fully understand the above instructions or are not comfortable servicing your water heater, contact a qualified service technician or GSW Technical Services at 1-888-GSW-TECH (1-888-479-8324).
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16. What are heat trap fittings?

Answer
As part of the redesign of our water heaters to meet the new 2004 Natural Resources Canada energy efficiency standard, GSW has added heat traps to the cold water inlet and the hot water outlet on most of our products. These thermoplastic devices are designed to reduce stand-by heat loss from water heaters. GSW heat traps have a tadpole design. They should not be removed.

The tadpole in the cold water inlet heat trap (blue) is lighter than water. As cold water is drawn into the tank, it is pushed down, it then floats up to reseat when water flow stops. It is furnished as a dip tube assembly.

A heavier-than-water tadpole in the heat trap for the hot water outlet (pink) is pushed up when hot water is drawn from the tank, and then sinks to reseat in the absence of water flow.

Each heat trap fitting features safety relief ports to prevent accidental closure of the waterway and each fitting is self cleaning, due to the inert thermoplastic lining that prevents lime and scale build-up. In addition, these plastic lined galvanized steel nipples create a dielectric waterway that prevents galvanic action between dissimilar metals.
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17. Intermittent or unexpectedly running out of hot water?

Answer
Inspect and/or Replace a Dip tube. If you are experiencing situations where running out of hot water unexpectedly you may need to replace your dip tube.

THE DIP TUBE IS CONNECTED TO THE COLD WATER INLET OF YOUR WATER HEATER.

1. Turn off the power if electric. If gas, unplug and turn off the incoming gas supply to the water heater.
2. Turn off the cold inlet water supply to the heater.
3. Open a hot water faucet located nearby. Leave it open. (Turn off water supply to house if single handle faucets could be opened during this procedure.)
4. Open the drain and drain off approximately 5 gallons of water from the heater.
5. Disconnect the cold water supply line from your water heater.
6. Put a thick layer of rags around the threads of the cold water inlet nipple to avoid damaging the threads when you unscrew the nipple.
7. Using a plumber’s wrench (Pipe wrench), unscrew the cold water inlet nipple-dip tube combination. (A helper may be required to steady the heater.)
8. Inspect for damage, such as a split, crack or fracture; replace the dip tube if necessary. If dip tube is completely missing, check the hot water outlet to eliminate the possibility of mix-up at installation.
9. Wrap threads of the new dip tube with “White Teflon Tape” or use "Teflon Pipe Dope". And install the (new) dip tube into tank and tighten.
10. Reconnect the cold water supply line to the heater.
11. Turn water supply back on and ensure the tank is completely filled with water. Open a faucet to release air from the plumbing system.
12. If electric turn the power back on; or if gas, turn on the gas supply to the unit and follow the lighting instructions on the side of the water heater.

Service requires trade knowledge in the areas of plumbing, electricity, venting, air supply and gas supply. If you lack these skills or have difficulty understanding these instructions, you should not proceed. Enlist the help of a qualified service technician. Examples of qualified service technicians include those trained in the plumbing and heating industry, local gas utility personnel or an authorized service person.
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